ALICE’S FOODGASMS:

Pizzeria Mozza: the Gourmet Pizza That Changed My Mind

Pizza is my favorite food. As long as I can remember, pizza has been the no-fail meal to gratify me morning, noon, or night. Since moving to Los Angeles, I’ve come across few pizzas that hold up to my Chicago-raised standards. None, actually. Unlike the popular New York-style, which is thin and crispy, I prefer mine Chicago-style: deep-dish like pie, with filling layers so thick you need a fork to eat it like it’s the best lasagna you’ve ever had. One piece of that will fill me to smiling satisfaction. Oh Giordano’s, how I miss you! Thin crust pizzas, on the other hand, seem more like appetizers you have to share. I hate having to fold my lovely little slice in half, and even then, the cheese seems to slip right off the slippery sauce-covered crust anyway. It frustrates me, thin crust pizza. But, there is a place that has given me a change of heart, not an easy feat to do when it comes to my mouth and what goes in it…

With pride, allow me introduce the restaurant that has given me the best thin crust pizza of my life: Pizzeria Mozza. Opened by renowned chef Nancy Silverton of the famous La Brea Bakery, together with Mario Batali and Joseph Bastianich, this inspiring trio has made a haven for pizza lovers like myself. No, it is not the thick-crusted pies I grew up on, or the predictably comfortable New York slices that we’ve all become accustomed to. This is gourmet pizza at its peak of divinity.

I’ve dined here many times, on some occasions at a hard-to-get table and most recently at the bar. I liked the bar best, where I could watch the talented chefs stretching the pale dough and artfully creating colorful pizzas with the freshest ingredients. It was all I could do to restrain myself from reaching over the counter to help. At the bar, I also got a cozy view of the stone fire the pizzas are cooked in, which cast a warm glow around the restaurant and emitted comforting heat on a rainy LA night. I always have the feeling that I am in Europe when I am dining here. Perhaps it is the cafeteria-like din paired with candlelight, or the menu with ingredients I’ve never heard of before, like speck (smoked prosciutto), rapini (baby broccoli), and sottocenere (a soft cheese made with truffles). The service is unintrusive and very helpful in explaining all the above-mentioned ingredients, as well as any other questions you might have about the menu.

As for the pizzas, I worship them. I’m not sure which I like better, of all the ones I’ve tried. There is one topped with the cutest fried egg that is savory. The pizza with house-made fennel sausage and scallions is juicy and full of flavor, and the one with gorgonzola and fingerling potatoes is sweet. The speck with bufula mozzarella, olive tapenade and oregano is bursting with smoky saltiness, and the funghi misti with thyme and other herbs has an earthy character to it. For those of you who are not so adventurous in your pizza pursuits, be comforted that there is also the traditional margherita, consisting of mozzarella, tomato, and basil, with the tastiest red sauce ever. The crusts of all the pizzas are handmade, and come out of the fire crisp and chewy with air pocket bubbles so big that you just wanna poke them.

The appetizers are creative, too, and just as yummy as the pizzas. The white bean brushette is a must-have for me every time, and the fried potatoes with ceci (chickpeas) and herbs are finger-licking. As for the desserts, the chefs didn’t stop their artistry there. How about an Italian ice cream sundae made with caramel, gooey melted marshmallows, and salty Spanish peanuts? Salt and caramel were never more exquisitely united with sweet before this confection. The butterscotch budino (a pudding) is silky smooth and achingly saccharine in the best way. Their gelato is exactly as gelato should be: glossy, creamy, and rich. I especially like the pistachio.

I would come to this place for any occasion. A work lunch, a casual date, a dinner with friends, any excuse I can find. There is also a tucked-away room reserved for private dining, which would be perfect for birthdays and other group events. Along with the Pizzeria, there is a neighboring restaurant by the same owners called Osteria Mozza. I have not had the chance to dine here yet, but I surely will, and I will write all about it!

Pizzeria Mozza is located at 641 N. Highland Ave, Los Angeles, CA 90036, at the intersection of Melrose Ave. For reservations, which are highly recommended, call 323-297-0101. Visit www.mozza-la.com to view the menu. The restaurant is open from noon to midnight daily, and there is a valet.