Larchmont Grill: The Casually Romantic Retreat
by Alice Greczyn
My ever-hardworking mom was just in town visiting, helping me pack boxes for my upcoming move. To our horror we realized that in the two weeks she had been in LA we had dined out at a restaurant only once. Well, I suppose we did overdo Yogurtland just a little bit, but does that count as dining? As refreshing as a cup of frozen pistachio yogurt is on a hot spring day, it’s not the same as being waited on, feasting until gorged of hot, new food. Mom needed some food-pampering, and I was happy to take a break from paperwork.
At the recommendation of a friend of mine, we decided to try out Larchmont Grill. We 
both were skeptical of the name–was it a noisy sports pub, or a bland restaurant catered to the rich and elderly? Lucky for us, it was neither. Larchmont Grill is full of charm and indulgence, with an accommodating staff and relatively fair prices.
We chose to sit upstairs, not on the balcony, but inside a beautiful room that made me feel as if I were in a 16th century tapestry. I pretended I was Marie Antoinette in a French conservatory that served food. Fresh flowers were in bunches everywhere, along with candles and lovely fabrics. While the setting was elegant, jeans seemed to be welcome and common attaire. The big band jazz music warmed the atmosphere, as did our lively waitress. When I asked her how the sweet corn ravioli with roasted pepper sauce was, she turned her eyes heavenward and breathed out, “They’re trying to make me fat, adding that to the menu!” My eyes also turned heavenward with the first bite. If I were a waitress here, I’d probably question the chef’s buttery motives myself.
Besides the ravioli, we also ordered filet mignon and mac n’ cheese, which came served in a skillet with chunks of bacon floating throughout. Toasted parmesan slivers lay sprinkled on top, adding a soft crunch to the otherwise gooey texture. I felt like a cowboy eating out of the wrought-iron pan. A Marie Antoinette cowboy in an indoor garden. The filet mignon was smothered with a black cherry merlot reduction that felt naughty, like it should be coating ice cream instead of sizzling meat. The cherries were tender and soaked, the tinges of wine barely detectable. The creamy smashed potatoes were thick, the sauteed shiitake mushrooms firm and meat-like.
For dessert, Mom and I debated between the flourless chocolate mocha espresso cake and the citrus ricotta cheesecake. The cheesecake won, filling our mouths with creamy fluff and berries. The orange rind was delicately laced throughout, adding the zing of upcoming summer.
Beyond satiated, the tension of moving having left our bodies, we reclined in our chairs and procrastinated paying the check. The idea of returning to my box-filled and messy apartment seemed dreadful after so lovely a dinner.
Larchmont Grill is located at 5750 Melrose Ave., Los Angeles, CA 90038. Their phone number is 323-464-4277. They are open for lunch Monday-Friday, and dinner every night but Monday. For more information and to see their ample specialty days and nights, go to www.larchmontgrill.com
